As we mentioned in the previous post, Siena is a medieval town that is remarkably well preserved. The streets in the original city are narrow and wind almost randomly within the city walls. Most of the buildings are 3 to 5 stories tall which accentuates the narrow maze effect. We visited two of the main architectural attractions: Torre del Mangia, the tower in the main square Piazza del Campo, and the Duomo Di Santa Maria Assunta.
The tower is the 3rd tallest secular tower in Italy, rising almost 90 meters above the square and dates back to the 1300's. The crazy square spiral staircase that takes you to the top of the tower is so narrow they won't even let you bring a camera case with you. Luckily, there are free lockers where we stashed our backpack before we tackled the stairs. Near the top we stepped out on to a platform where two of the three bells of the tower reside. Appreciating and distracted by photographing the view, we neglected to mind the time and were startled when the bell above us clanged. Fortunately, it was only once for the half hour. You would not want to plan your visit to the top at noon! The steps became even steeper, more like a ladder, as we wound our way to the very top. The view of Siena is amazing as you look across the red tile roofs of the old city to the Tuscan countryside in the distance. They only allow 25 people into the tower at once and ask that you limit your stay to15 minutes. After quickly determining there were no bad views, we obtained a series of postcard worthy photos. The 10 year old girl who had been with her family at the top skipped along ahead of us with ease as we inched our way back down the tiny stairs.
Next we toured the duomo which actually consists of 3 different areas. The first is the main cathedral, the second is the baptistry behind the cathedral, and the third is a crypt beneath the baptistry. The main cathedral is constructed primarily from black and white marble layered together to create a striped effect throughout. As we stood in the que for our entry, we overheard the guide telling another visitor this was a very special time to view the cathedral as the entire floor was visible. The visual spectacle of the sanctuary is not limited to the walls and ceiling. The floor is divided into 56 sections, each composed of multiple shades of inlaid marble illustrating stories of both secular and religious importance (some of the most valuable are covered for all but two months of the year). The overall effect is very striking if not a bit overwhelming. The baptistry is a relatively small area however the ornate baptismal font is only one of its artistic wonders. The walls and ceiling are all decorated with the ornate frescoes we had come to expect in the Italian Renaissance cathedral, designed by such renowned artists as Ghiberti and Donatello. The crypt was a bit of a respite from the main sanctuary. It was only unearthed in 1999 and the walls are adorned with murals using a technique called "dry painting" which looks similar to chalk. The colors are amazingly vibrant, especially considering they date from the 1200's, and contrast well against the plain brick of the ceiling. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed in this area of the basilica.
As we concluded our visit to The Duomo, we could not help but imagine the competition between the artists who created the incredible cathedrals we had toured. The complete saturation of the visual sense as well as the massive scale of the architectural design employed by the artists was truly impressive.
The rest of our time in Siena was taken up with relaxing walks through the city investigating several fountains. Not the ornate, statue adorned centerpieces we had viewed in Rome, these were quiet pools formed by springs that appeared to have been used in a more utilitarian fashion. We browsed the many small shops that line the streets and took some time to relax as the end of our trip drew near. We ate at wonderful restaurants both nights we were there, but it was the second night that really stood out. We made a reservation (with the help of Google translator) via the Italian only website and arrived at Tre Cristi at the incredibly early hour of 7:30. Sherrie ordered the "tasting menu" which consisted of 3 courses picked by the chef each evening. For variety, I ordered one appetizer and one main course so we could try out a variety of items. In addition to the meals we ordered, the restaurant provided a complimentary aperitif (prosecco) and appetizer.The courses, which were mainly seafood based, were all cooked and presented perfectly. The service was stellar and we thoroughly enjoyed our fine dining experience at this historic restaurant (established in 1830!).
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